Sur les traces d'Edward Thomas

"This is the record of a journey from London to the Quantock Hills - to Nether Stowey, Kilve, Crowcombe, and West-Bagborough, to the high point where the Taunton-Bridgwater road tops the hills and shows all Exmoor behind, all the Mendips before, and upon the left the sea, and Wales very far off. It was a journey on or with a bicycle. The season was Easter."
Edward Thomas, In Pursuit of Spring, 1913.

dimanche 8 avril 2012

Wessex: meadow, grove and stream


A Shakespearian reminiscence:
"We were as twinned lambs that did frisk i'the sun..."
I saw many things today. This morning seems ages ago. I am now in Bournemouth at Mike and Anita's. They have a very cosy flat, up a hill (again)...

First, fom Abbotsbury (where I slept for a while, huddled against the church) to Weymouth. Looming clouds and some rain. Early in the morning the road was quiet. The air was full of brine and other good things. It took me some time to warm up and manage the hills.

[Two different ways to deal with hills. The first way is when you are in shape and use the bike weight to make your way up: you push hard on your legs, on a hard gear. The second way is to remain seated, sedately pass the easiest gear and think of something else. At some point it becomes more sensible.]

When I arrived in Weymouth drizzle had turned into a steady rain. All the same I went to see Wyke Regis, and I caught a glimpse of Chesil Beach.
Then up north to Dorchester.

Cycling path, not bad but sometimes too close to the main road. The sky turned clearer and there was some beautiful light.
Dorchester.
Maiden Castle! Eerie place, immensely green after so many years.

Maiden Castle

A beautiful street crossing Dorchester from west to east. The town is nice and small. I am tired of cycling and treat myself to a short walk.

Dorchester main street

Hardy is everywhere, sometimes spelt Hardye.


 I went to see Hardy's cottage in Higher Bockhampton, following the Cycling Route 2. Worthy detour.

 There, a lady told me that Hardy himself was a keen cyclist, though he took to it late in his life, and that he often cycled from there to Bournemouth. That was comforting! [I hope it was true, I doubt it].

I caught something of the spirit of the place cycling through Dorset. The vegetation is unusual, very green and very dry at the same time, with heather everywhere.

At some point, the sun came out and everything was transformed. There are mysterious trees. I dont know their names. A dead tree is terribly conspicuous against a cloudy sky.

"It looks so old and grey"
After passing a village called Wool I suddenly felt very hungry, ate some bread and then fell asleep in the grass. Back on my bike I still felt drowsy , a nice feeling.
Then I followed a wonderful cycling path to Wareham and then Sandbanks.
Corfe castle is a castle, really. "One of Britain's most iconic and evocative survivors of the English Civil War, partially demolished in 1646 by the Parliamentarians."
Corfe Castle
Before Sandbanks I ride up a high hill which commands the bay.

A view of Bournemouth Bay
Bournemouth bay is impressive. There is a small ferry drawn by a chain that goes from Sandbanks to Poole... It's a shortcut. I like shortcuts.

This evening, my knees tend to protest. Mike says that if the front of my knees ache, my saddle might be too low. I would say that the hills might be slightly too high as well.
Mike is a bike gear professional. I want goretex shoe-covers, and a hand-made saddle-bag. I obviously need a new [carbon] racing bike as well, with automatic pedals!
Apparently my gear problems originated in a gear cage placed too high. It makes sense, it's better now but some problems remain.

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